A Quick Guide to Pet Rats

While pet stores will foist off on unsuspecting parents and children hamsters, gerbils, mice and guinea pigs, all of whom can be less than ideal in terms of intelligence, fragility, odor, and temperament, the rat stands unloved in the corner. Responsive, intelligent, affectionate, even-tempered and clean, rats are some of the best pets a family can have.

The first step to getting a pet rat is to contact a reputable breeder. Be aware that all breeders can present themselves as reputable on their websites, but may be involved in some shady dealing that never makes to their website. Be sure to ask around, watch their website for a while, question the breeder and their associates until you find one you are comfortable with.

Rats are very social animals and do best in trios or pairs. Trios are a more stable arrangement, since often one rat will die first and leave their cagemate bereft of their bonded friend. Rats can become sick with grief! Littermates mate the best groups, but related rats who are not littermates also tend to live easily together. Unrelated rats can be introduced with care, and this is done easiest when they are under 10 weeks of age. Cagemates will not make your rat bond less with you, but will provide them with their required constant social contact, grooming, sleeping and playing companions.

Rats need a safe, clean cage in order to be healthy. Wire-sided cages such as a Martin's cage or a Critter Nation are best, as aquariums provide poor ventilation and wooden or plastic cages will be destroyed quickly. It should have plenty of room for the rats to move around and play in, as well as room for hammocks, toys, and a wheel for enrichment. The cage should ideally be placed in a family room where they can get plenty of attention and see a lot of activity. Rats should not be placed in direct sunlight, or in drafts, or in areas where the temperature is prone to sudden changes.

Bedding should be in the form of safe wood or a paper pellet form. Pine and cedar are toxic and should never be used in any form, even kiln-dried, and even if it's only in the litter pan. Aspen and hardwood chips are safe, as are recycled paper products like Carefresh, Yesterday's News and Cell-sorb. The bedding should be cleaned on a weekly basis, and the entire cage should be rinsed with hot water and a non-toxic cleaner at least every month.

Food should be constantly offered, ideally in the form of a quality rat block such as Harlan/Native Earth, Mazuri, or Oxbow. LM, Kaytee and seed mixes are not appropriate rat diets. Homemade diets such as SueBee or Debbie D's rat diet can be used, but care must be taken to balance them appropriately and be sure that the rat eats all portions. Fresh veggies, bones, fruit, and table scraps can be offered daily, as long as all leftovers are cleaned away at the end of the day. Fresh, clean water should be offered at all times, and antibiotics or vitamin supplements should never be added.

Breeding has been covered in another article in this series (Should I Breed My Rats?) but it is not something to be undertaken lightly. Most breeders will only sell their breedable animals to known, trusted breeders, and others are placed on non-breeding contracts. These contracts should always be adhered to, and in the case of an accidental litter, you should contact the breeder immediately to find out what to do.

Finding a good vet who will treat rats is a very high priority. The breeder you get your rats from should be able to recommend one if you live in their area. If you notice any signs of ill-health in your rat, you should get them in to see the vet as soon as possible. Your pets are relying on you for their care, and can go downhill in a hurry. Some of the signs that your vet may need veterinary attention include: injuries, wheezing, sneezing, coughing/"hiccupping," swelling, injuries with white/creamy pus buildup, loss of weight and lethargy.